Furry Friends in the Bugaboos

Furry Friends in the Bugaboos

When our group of six arrived in East Creek in mid-July, we knew something wasn’t quite right. The parking lot was empty. The bivy was still full of snow. The sky was spitting rain and whipping wind. No one was around. Not even our furry friends. We worried that...
Eye of the Storm

Eye of the Storm

  Eye of the Storm (700 m, M6 WI5) – FA October 16, 2019 Maarten van Haeren and Ethan Berman Approach: Hike to Upper Twin Lake, following hiking trails from 93S or Castle Junction (both 2:30-3:00 hrs). Hike N shore of the lake and approach route (1:00-1:30...
Cassin Ridge 2019

Cassin Ridge 2019

A big thanks to Arc’teryx, Onsight Equipment, and the Neil Mackenzie Trust for supporting this adventure. One after another, my crampons bite into the brittle ice of the broken, glaciated Seattle Ramp. And just like that, my right foot skitters, and I am falling. My...
My First Mountain

My First Mountain

Lately, dealing with a strained rotator cuff has opened up a space of thought and reflection. I’ve been reading through my old journal entries, and also hoping to resurrect some writing projects. As I’ve been struggling to be at ease with my injury, and...
Cookoo Polar Drip: Team T4 in the Rockies

Cookoo Polar Drip: Team T4 in the Rockies

Antony and I just finished up a week of climbing and skiing in the Rockies, in anticipation of our trip to the Alaska Range this summer. Our expedition name is “T4”, named after the monster burger found at the Bear’s Den in Golden. Our buddy Tim...
The Void

The Void

Where am I? I walked home but never made it. I climbed a mountain and found another on the other side. I drove for 6 hours but didn’t get there. Was I wrong to think of distance in terms of the mile and not the mental?
New Mixed in the Bridge

New Mixed in the Bridge

Seeds of doubt surrounding the warm conditions swirled up and down the west coast in the days leading up to the 2019 Lillooet Ice Fest. Needless to say, those who committed to attending were rewarded with a good time spent with quality company, and of course some...
Keep Your Heid, Mt. Athelstan

Keep Your Heid, Mt. Athelstan

Keep Your Heid, 600m, IV M5 5.9 With thanksgiving weekend just around the corner Antony and I scraped together a plan to get out in the alpine. Our original objective in the Rockies looked too snowy, and we weren’t keen to give in to a low-key weekend rock...
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