by Ethan Berman | Apr 24, 2024 | Blog
The topo above describes the routes detailed in this post. For information about the routes Cloudburst and The Unconditioned, click here Mid February and I was back at the Stanley Glacier parking lot. All signs of travel led straight up to the headwall, but once again...
by Ethan Berman | Jan 7, 2024 | Blog
Fall ’23 Roundup A friend recently told me that his wife asked him, upon returning from an expedition, “Why do you want to climb so much right now, didn’t you just get back from a climbing expedition?” His response was, “Yes, but we didn’t do any climbing!” That much...
by Ethan Berman | Dec 20, 2023 | Blog
Some rad organizations supporting adventures in Canada made this trip possible: Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) in coordination with Arc’teryx, and the Royal Canadian Geographical Society (RCGS) in coordination with Canadian Geographic....
by Ethan Berman | Nov 15, 2023 | Blog
“Any alpine route with one good pitch is destined to be a Rockies classic,” Maarten said, grinning. “And this one has at least six.” “The descent has to be quick and straight-forward to become a classic,” I replied. We had been on the move for some 16 hours, and were...
by Ethan Berman | Jun 20, 2023 | Blog
Although ice conditions were lean this winter in the rockies, calling it a bad season can mostly be chalked up to a lack of imagination. With many lifetimes of climbing potential across the range, we have a tendency to get focused on specific zones each season....
by Ethan Berman | Apr 4, 2022 | Blog
(Photo: Zac Colbran) NAGA (M8 WI5+) FA Grant Stewart, Ethan Berman. March 28,2022 Climb the first two pitches of Scar Tissue and traverse to a two-bolt belay beneath a black streak. Pitch 1: Climb ice blobs to reach bolted face climbing that continues up through roofs...
by Ethan Berman | Mar 20, 2022 | Blog
“An Exploratory Adventure to the Cordillera Real in Bolivia”. This title succeeded in winning Brian Houle and I funding for our expedition, but the significance of the words has changed in the last year and a half. We based our trip off a handful of photos taken...
by Ethan Berman | Dec 18, 2021 | Blog
My 2020 ascent of Mount Robson with Uisdean Hawthorn was recently recognized by the Piolets d’Or in France. After leaving the event, I read the New York Times article “A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner’s Last”, and was disappointed by the picture it painted of...
by Ethan Berman | Nov 15, 2021 | Blog
Today out my window in downtown Canmore I watched it snow, and then rain, and then snow again, as if the seasons are colliding in the ring, throwing quick jabs back and forth, even though we all know who will inevitably be proclaimed victor in the next round. The fall...
by Ethan Berman | Oct 17, 2021 | Blog
` Since I started alpine climbing, which was not all that long ago, I’ve been relatively successful. For example, my first big expedition, which was to Bolivia, resulted in several new routes and a few other cool summits. On my second big trip we climbed the Cassin...
