by Ethan Berman | Nov 15, 2023 | Blog
“Any alpine route with one good pitch is destined to be a Rockies classic,” Maarten said, grinning. “And this one has at least six.” “The descent has to be quick and straight-forward to become a classic,” I replied. We had been on the move for some 16 hours, and were...
by Ethan Berman | Jun 20, 2023 | Blog
Although ice conditions were lean this winter in the rockies, calling it a bad season can mostly be chalked up to a lack of imagination. With many lifetimes of climbing potential across the range, we have a tendency to get focused on specific zones each season....
by Ethan Berman | Apr 4, 2022 | Blog
(Photo: Zac Colbran) NAGA (M8 WI5+) FA Grant Stewart, Ethan Berman. March 28,2022 Climb the first two pitches of Scar Tissue and traverse to a two-bolt belay beneath a black streak. Pitch 1: Climb ice blobs to reach bolted face climbing that continues up through roofs...
by Ethan Berman | Mar 20, 2022 | Blog
“An Exploratory Adventure to the Cordillera Real in Bolivia”. This title succeeded in winning Brian Houle and I funding for our expedition, but the significance of the words has changed in the last year and a half. We based our trip off a handful of photos taken...
by Ethan Berman | Dec 18, 2021 | Blog
My 2020 ascent of Mount Robson with Uisdean Hawthorn was recently recognized by the Piolets d’Or in France. After leaving the event, I read the New York Times article “A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner’s Last”, and was disappointed by the picture it painted of...
by Ethan Berman | Nov 15, 2021 | Blog
Today out my window in downtown Canmore I watched it snow, and then rain, and then snow again, as if the seasons are colliding in the ring, throwing quick jabs back and forth, even though we all know who will inevitably be proclaimed victor in the next round. The fall...
by Ethan Berman | Oct 17, 2021 | Blog
` Since I started alpine climbing, which was not all that long ago, I’ve been relatively successful. For example, my first big expedition, which was to Bolivia, resulted in several new routes and a few other cool summits. On my second big trip we climbed the Cassin...
by Ethan Berman | Jul 12, 2021 | Blog
On September 29th, 2020, Uisdean Hawthorn and I hiked into Berg Lake to see if we could climb the Emperor Face of Mount Robson. Although the face was shrouded in fog all evening, we woke up early on the 30th and started moving upward under the stars. We ended up...
by Ethan Berman | Sep 16, 2020 | Blog
When our group of six arrived in East Creek in mid-July, we knew something wasn’t quite right. The parking lot was empty. The bivy was still full of snow. The sky was spitting rain and whipping wind. No one was around. Not even our furry friends. We worried that...
by Ethan Berman | Nov 17, 2019 | Blog
Eye of the Storm (700 m, M6 WI5) – FA October 16, 2019 Maarten van Haeren and Ethan Berman Approach: Hike to Upper Twin Lake, following hiking trails from 93S or Castle Junction (both 2:30-3:00 hrs). Hike N shore of the lake and approach route (1:00-1:30...
